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Franco’s olive grove diary
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Olive oil making is a year-round affair. As spring sets in Franco is busy tending to his groves. Here’s the diary of a typical day on the Pornanino estate, so you can check how your 2006 olive oil is getting on.
Read more
How much do you know about olive oil?
Take our test and find out
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We know you appreciate fine olive oil.
But are you sure you really know the basics? Well, let’s see how you handle
our quiz. Read
more What’s on in Chianti this summer
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Are you coming to Chianti in the summer? Then this list of not-to-be-missed events is for you. And if you have made other arrangements, perhaps it’s not too late to reconsider.
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The Pornanino Olive Oil 2006 US Tour
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We went to America in April to show off our wonderful olive oil, and were rewarded by the warmest welcome we could hope for. It was so much fun we want to tell you all about it.
Read more
Grandma
Lia’s olive oil
recipes
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Editor and copy: Francesca Boggio Robutti
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version
Back to
Olive Oil website
© 2006 Az. Agricola Pornanino. All
rights reserved. Reproduction without permission prohibited. While we make
every effort to provide accurate and reliable information, we cannot be held
responsible for any mistakes that may occur.
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Olive oil making is a year-round
affair. As spring sets in Franco is busy tending to his groves. Here’s the
diary of a typical day on the Pornanino estate, so you can check how your 2006
olive oil is getting on.
It’s been a miserable winter in
Italy, relentlessly cold, wet and going on through March. Olive trees don’t
mind the cold too much, though, provided a late frost doesn’t hit the flowers -
which mercifully didn’t happen this year. So far, so good, but it’s still early
to celebrate. It takes about six months for the drupes to develop and ripen and
anything may still happen. But we take good care, so you don’t have to worry
about your next supply of Pornanino olive oil.
In winter the trees hibernate so
nothing much goes on, but as soon as spring comes in the pace picks up. Franco
is an early riser. He’s usually up and about at dawn, patrolling his hillside
groves with his tractor. He doesn’t have to commute far – the trees come down
the gentle slopes to his doorstep. He can actually see most of them from his
windows!
On the Pornanino estate there
are about 4,000 olive trees. When Franco bought it, some 15 years ago, the farm
had been neglected for a very long time, so most of the olive trees are quite
young – he actually planted them himself. Olive trees must be at least 12 years
old before they start seriously bearing fruit, but then their productive life
can go on for decades. There are actually quite a number of specimens around
the Mediterranean who are several centuries old.
Olive trees are quite hardy, but
if there’s one thing they hate it’s getting their feet wet. That’s why they
thrive in hilly, rocky soil where water drains away quickly and there is little
rainfall in summer. So what Franco does in spring is lightly prune them so that
they don’t grow too tall, otherwise hand harvesting would be even more
time-consuming than it already is. Then he routinely makes sure that the soil
around them is free of weeds and loose, to prevent stagnating water from making
the trees uncomfortable. We want them to be healthy and happy to bear perfect
fruit!
One chore Franco doesn’t have to
see to is spraying his groves to kill the pest known as “white fly”, an
all-too-common bug that’s notoriously fond of olive trees and haunts most
groves in Tuscany as elsewhere. There is no white fly on the Pornanino estate
thanks to its hillside location about 400 meters above sea level and well
sheltered from the humid sea breezes that blow in from the nearby coast. Franco
can happily do without pesticides or
any other chemicals.
Around noon, when the sun gets a
little too hot for comfort even in spring, Franco gets off his red tractor and
makes a bee-line for home. Every self-respecting Italian likes to have a
leisurely lunch sitting down with his or her legs under the table, as we say.
For many families lunch is the main meal of the day, with a minimum of two
courses and fruit to follow – and pasta is a definite must. Then it would be
madness to get back to work on a full stomach in the hottest part of the day,
so it makes perfect sense to take a nice nap. Can you wonder that we have
dozens of regional words for siesta?
Later, the chug-chugging of the
red tractor’s engine is again to be heard for a few hours, far away among the
olive trees. But when the sun sets behind the hills the only sound to break the
peace is the chirping of birds and the gentle rustling of leaves caressed by
the evening breeze. Your olive trees are safe in Franco’s hands this spring.
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We
know you appreciate fine olive oil. But are
you sure you really know the basics? Well, let’s see how you handle our quiz.
It’s best to use as little as
possible because olive oil makes you fat
Wrong. While it’s true that olive oil is a source of calories,
just like any other fat, our body can’t function correctly on an entirely
fat-free diet. So cutting out fats altogether is not a good idea. Compared to
other cooking fats, however, olive oil is good for us in many other ways.
Modern research has confirmed that it protects our heart by getting rid of
“bad” cholesterol, helps digestion, contains several unique vitamins and acts
as a powerful antioxidant, which means it promotes cell regeneration and might
even ward off cancer. In short, it keeps our body healthy, fit and rejuvenated.
Actually, it has been suggested that the very best way of looking after oneself
is slurping a tablespoon of straight extra virgin olive oil first thing in the
morning, every day. Just don’t make it three or four, though, or you’ll get
fat!
True. Good for you! If you want all the flavour plus the
virtues we mentioned above, there’s no other way to go. And please don’t think
we are biased if we point out that the advantages far outbalance the cost. A
superior first cold pressed extra virgin olive oil is hard to get and worth
every dollar it costs, just like a good bottle of wine. The problem here is
that you won’t be able to tell a quality product from an inferior one just by
reading the label or the price tag. Terms like “first cold pressed” and “extra
virgin” actually are no guarantee that the olive oil you’re buying is free from
chemicals and industrial processing, let alone telling you anything about the
quality of the olives it is made from. A good rule of thumb when choosing,
therefore, is to avoid brands that are sold in mass-retail outlets, as no
company who produces hundreds of thousands of bottles can afford to do so the
traditional way – even if they claim to. If you want quality you have to look
at the smaller outfits. Shop around, taste and judge for yourself. But be wary
– there are sharks out there, and that’s one thing that doesn’t mix well with
olive oil.
Wrong. Apart from the fact that olive oil is good for you
so you should use it every day, it is a natural product and as such it does
have a shelf life. It is best consumed within 1 year of the production date,
but it can keep for up to 2 years if it comes from slightly unripe olives – the
way we make it. Just be sure to store
your olive oil in a dark cupboard, and remember it doesn’t like it when it’s
too cold. Don’t let it freeze and don’t expose it to sunlight (that’s why good
olive oil comes in dark-colored glass bottles). Keep it corked when you’re not
using it.
Most people only use extra virgin
olive oil on a salad. I don’t agree
True. Full
marks. If the olive oil you’re using is
good, it will have a very distinct personality that can enhance the flavor of
any food it meets. It’s actually a shame to only use it for salads! Italian
cooking can be very elaborate and sophisticated, but it’s often at its best
when working with only a few very fresh ingredients, subtly underscored by a
drizzle of good olive oil. Just think of the simple perfection of dishes such as bruschetta (grilled bread, fresh
tomato, garlic, basil and olive oil) or caprese (sliced mozzarella cheese,
fresh tomato, oregano or basil leaves and olive oil); true Italian-style pizza
couldn’t do without, nor such essential masterpieces as spaghetti tossed with
garlic, a little chilli pepper and olive oil. Why, olive oil is the secret of
Italian cuisine! To enjoy it, though, you must first get rid of the clutter to
allow it space to breathe. Next time you have a steak try drizzling a little
olive oil on it instead of dousing it with ketchup. Cook the simplest vegetable
soup and finish it up with just a little olive oil poured on before serving – you won’t need any other
fat or shortening, and it will still taste great. With an olive oil bottle at
hand you could even go on a diet with a smile. And if weight is not an issue
(lucky you), then you might be interested to know that olive oil is actually
your healthiest bet as a frying fat. So you’re absolutely right. Extra virgin
olive oil is positively wasted if you only use it on a salad.
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Are you coming to Chianti in the summer? Then this list of
not-to-be-missed events is for you. And if you have made other arrangements,
perhaps it’s not too late to reconsider …
Just a
short driving distance from both Florence and Siena, the Chianti area is quite
small, but despite its diminutive size it encompasses an amazing concentration
of medieval hamlets, landmark little towns and some of the most scenic,
pristine countryside Italy has to offer. Traditionally, summer is the time of
the year when rural communities spill outside to have fun under the stars.
Almost every village, no matter how small, stages its own open-air fair to
celebrate its patron Saint’s day or some centuries-old historical event. It
doesn’t take much of an excuse to celebrate! The following list of events is by
no means comprehensive – there will be much more going on. If you want to know
exactly how much you’ll have to come and find out for yourself… Look out for
the week of August 15 (we call it Ferragosto, the day marking the Virgin Mary’s
ascension to heaven) when nobody in their right mind would stay home!
Wandering musicians festival – Music and food stalls
May
27-28, Greve in Chianti –
Festival della Ginestra (Broom Fair) - Music and food stalls
June 17-18,
La Panca (Strada in Chianti)
Stars and Merchants – night handicrafts market with music and shows
Every 3rd Thursday night from May through
August, Greve in Chianti
Palio di Siena – world-famous horse race around Siena’s main square
run twice every year. Expect large crowds
July 2, Siena
Festa di Sant’Anna (Saint Anne’s fair) – music and dancing
July 24 through 26, Greve in Chianti
Goblets of stars – music, specialty food stalls and Chianti wine tasting
August 10,
Greve in Chianti and Tavernelle Val di Pesa
Festa di San Cassiano (Saint Cassiano Fair) – band music, food stalls,
dancing and fireworks
August 13, San Casciano
Festa del Nocciolo (Hazelnut Fair) – open-air dinner with local dishes
August 14,
Panzano in Chianti
Palio di Siena – second
yearly appointment with the
world-famous horse race around Siena’s main square. Expect large crowds.
August 16, Siena
Festa Passato e Presente – ancient fair celebrating the historic battle of
Monteaperti, with music, food and wine stalls and a torch-lit parade
3rd and last weekend of August,
Casetta/Monteaperti
Festa del Luca (Luca Fair) – food and wine stalls and open-air
dinner in the main square
1st and 2nd weekend of
September, San Giusmè
Festa della Rificolona – handicraft market, rificolona parade and contest,
music and shows
September 7, Greve in Chianti
Stradainfiera (Strada Fair)
– music, shows, handicraft market, jostling and food stalls
September 17-18, Strada in Chianti
Festa dell’Uva (Grapes Fair) – a step back in time to celebrate
Chianti’s rural past with villagers in traditional costume, artisans and the
old times re-enacted in the streets; floats parade, music, food stalls and
Chianti wine tasting.
Last week of September, Vagliagli

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We went to America in April to show off our wonderful olive oil,
and were rewarded by the warmest welcome we could hope for. It was so much fun
we want to tell you all about it.
Touring the US has become a
pleasant tradition for Franco and his daughter Francesca. They have been flying
over every year to meet with old friends and make new ones across the States.
This time they were accompanied by yet another Francesca, the first Francesca’s
sister in law. A bit confusing, isn’t it? But that’s the Italian extended
family for you!
So off we flew on a warm spring morning, headed for
Washington, DC. And you know what? We arrived just in time to see the
celebrated cherry blossoms in full bloom, such a gorgeous sight on a
picture-perfect sunny afternoon! It was a terrific welcome, but nothing
compared to the reception we got at Sally Beach’s family home for our first
olive oil seminar. Those are the real
highlights of our US tours. Franco just loves talking about his favourite
subject and sharing the knowledge he has gathered over the years as an
enthusiastic olive oil producer. Sally had invited more than 40 friends to attend,
with a lavish Italian buffet to follow Franco’s presentation. It’s been a
wonderful evening!
Next morning (April Fool’s, and
no mistake) we reported at Regan airport, mercifully hours early even though
our taxi driver had treated us to a most thorough and unrequested sight-seeing
tour of downtown DC, only to discover that our Chicago flight was actually
leaving from Dulles. We made it, but only because traffic is slack on a
Saturday …
Up in the North-West spring had
yet to arrive but nobody seemed to mind. Natives in T-shirts and sandals threw
us pitying looks as we huddled in our coats, shivering and wishing we had
packed woollen scarves. Tourists – can’t stand a breeze. Look, it was a windy
40° F and freezing!
From Chicago we took the
Greyhound bus (wow!) to Madison, WI, where our second seminar was scheduled.
The venue was the long-standing
Lombardino’s Restaurant, THE place to eat Italian food in town. If you are from
around there you’re sure to know it (www.lombardinos.com). Chef Patrick, an old friend of ours, had cooked a
7-course Italian feast as a backdrop for Franco’s olive oil lecture. And the
audience, about 70 strong, seemed to appreciate both …
On to Milwaukee, WI, we had the
honor of staying at the historic
Milwaukee Athletic Club, where Franco gave his olive oil seminar to some
80 members. Despite the grand surroundings it was a very friendly, relaxed
evening. And it was also very nice to have lunch at the Italian Community
Center – a real corner of Italy on the shores of Lake Michigan!
Emboldened by our ten days on
the road, we arrived in Winnetka, IL, by a combination of train and metro. Our
host Betsy, who was picking us up at the station, had never seen us but she
recognized us on the spot: three forlorn, shivering figures surrounded by a
mountain of luggage. Franco and the two Francescas were instantly adopted by
the cheerful staff of Corner Cooks, where our last seminar was due to be held.
If you live in the Chicago area and don’t know the place, have a look at their
website (www.cornercooks.com).
It’s the most wonderful cooking school/catering/take away you can imagine.
Needless to say, Franco’s presentation was a success and so much fun!
Then it was time to head back
home, a few pounds heavier (so much good food!) but happy. We met so
many great people. Thank you everyone, we hope to see you again. Come and see us
in Tuscany next time!
Stay tuned for the 2007 tour dates and
locations!
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Quick and easy recipes straight from
the Italian regional tradition, courtesy of Lia’s family cookbook. Think of us
when you serve them to your family and friends!
Pesto sauce (serves 4)
2 cups fresh basil leaves
¼ cup pine nuts
½ cup Parmesan cheese, grated
2 garlic cloves, peeled
Pornanino extra virgin olive oil
Put the
fresh basil leaves, rinsed and pat-dried, in the blender together with the
grated Parmesan cheese, pine nuts and garlic cloves. Add plenty of Pornanino
extra virgin olive oil and process until creamy and smooth. If the sauce is too
thick loosen it with a little more olive oil.
Use to season pasta (spaghetti is best). It’s also great to give a fresh
Italian flavour to just about any dish. You can keep a jar of pesto in the
fridge for a few days. It will lose its bright green color, but the flavor will
actually improve. Make sure to top it with olive oil to prevent it from drying
out.
Summery chicken salad (serves
2)
2 chicken breasts, boneless and skinless
carrot, onion and celery, a few bits of each (optional)
1 bay leaf (optional)
2 large ripe tomatoes
1 cup mixed fresh herbs (thyme, marjoram, oregano, mint, basil,
chives)
Pornanino extra virgin olive oil
Balsamic vinegar (optional)
Bring
water to the boil in a saucepan with a few bits of carrot, onion and celery and
a bay leaf (optional). Add the chicken breasts and cook until tender (about 15
minutes, depending on size). When cooked through drain, let cool and slice.
Chop the herbs, mix with about ½ cup of Pornanino extra virgin olive oil and
pour over the chicken, seasoning with salt and freshly-ground pepper. Cover
with cling film and let stand in the fridge for at least one hour. Meanwhile
wash the tomatoes, cut them in half and remove the seeds. Dice them and leave
to drain in a colander. When ready to serve, put the baby spinach in a large
platter, arrange the sliced chicken over it together with most of the herb
marinade. Top with the diced tomatoes, seasoned with the remaining marinade, a
little salt and a few drops of balsamic vinegar if liked.
